Friday, May 31, 2013

Return to Savage River

Two nights ago I again took advantage of free time during the evening to venture further into Denali National Park. I chose to return to the Savage River drop-off point again for a few reasons. First, it is only an additional ~13 miles into the park, so it wouldn't take too long to get to. Second, without a backcountry bus ticket Savage River is as far as you can go (I now have a ticket to head out into the park tomorrow morning for an extended hike!). Lastly, I had a more concrete goal in mind for the hike I had chosen that night.

As before, the bus ride was incredible. This time I passed a porcupine (waddled away before I could snap a good picture), and a few more caribou just relaxing in the waist high swaths of dwarf birch (a real pain to hike through as I found out today during work).

Just as with the night before the sun was shining bright, and the whole valley looked brilliant. Unfortunately Mt. McKinley/Denali was hidden behind cloud banks. But, considering that the peak is over 80 miles from where I was hiking it can be assumed that there is a lot of different weather going on in between.

 Pretty willows (Salix sp.) line the river sides. There are over 30 species of willow in Alaska alone.

My goal for the night was to summit the middle peak in the photo above (taken from the Savage River shuttle stop). The peak was opposite the ridge I had climbed before, and had wonderful views farther west into the park's central valley. Although it may appear shorter the middle peak actually rose ~100 feet high than the peak on the left, and over ~1000 higher than the ridge on the right.

 After clambering my way up the first point (far right in previous photo) I followed along the ridge trail which sauntered towards my destination. The topography fell away steeply in either direction and allowed me to easily scan for moving wildlife in both the Savage River valley as well as the central floor of the park.

Dazzling moss and lichen covered rocks make the hike all the better.

 I tried to avoid looking at the view for most of the hike up both to savor the final prize, as well as save on time (as I had to catch the 9:30 shuttle home or else risk spending the night in the park...without food/shelter). The panoramic view was well worth the wait and effort. The ridge I followed lies down in the middle of the photo, with the park road meandering away in the distance.

 It is truly hard to grasp the notion of space in the park. When you are not used to geographical features that are so monstrous, or empty chasms of space so vast, it truly gives you the sense of vertigo when attempting to take it all in. For example, the road down below me is over 2 miles away (as the crow flies), and the mountains in the distance are ~15 miles away.

 Let's go Spiders.

 Just as with my last trip to Savage River, let me end with some photos of adorable snowshoe hares. In this case these two guys were playing tag in the Park Headquarters. These shots give a better example of their big ol' feet which are their namesake.













Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Arriving in Alaska: A Hostel in Fairbanks and a Hike in Denali

Arrived in Alaska just last Saturday evening after a pleasant flight which afforded magnificent views of both the Canadian Rockies and the Alaskan Range mountains. I landed in Fairbanks, and spent the first three nights at a hostel nearby. The people were wonderful (if not unique) and more than generous. I arrived in the midst of a celebration of sorts in which I was given a full meal which included amazingly fresh salmon. Sven, the man who owns the place is quite the legend. In 2011 he finished 11th in the Iditarod. His best time is 8 days 18 hours across a 1,000 mile race course...you can do the math. Hearing his stories of dog training and racing were really something (I am glad now that Coach Taylor never had us do back-to-back 15 hour runs separated by a measly 4 hours rest).

 I was put up in this Alaskan-style canvas walled tent. No need to worry about the cold as the temperatures hovered above 75 virtually the entire time I was in Fairbanks.

With not much to do in Fairbanks (as I was told by everyone I asked), I used all my free time to get in some solid runs, meet and talk with the other visitors, and walk to nearby areas. The first morning I took a walk up to the University of Fairbanks just to see the campus.

 From campus the Alaskan Range dominated the horizon.

 One of the maintenance workers at the hostel also let me putter around town on his homemade motorized bike.
 I was glad to see he had at one point installed cross-country spikes for grip in snow...now long past due.

 By far one of the strangest sensations I have experienced was the length of each day. This picture above was taken at 11:45 pm one night before bed. Nothing like hanging out and playing croquet to suddenly realize its almost midnight.

 On Tuesday morning we (the other intern and I) met up with two other co-workers at the National Park Headquarters in Fairbanks and started our drive down to Denali National Park where our training would take place. As you can see above, the drive was not like travelling down I-95 in DC traffic.
 A view of the "foothills" of the Alaskan Range on the north-eastern portion of the park boundary.

 We are currently residing in a nice little apartment at the headquarters of Denali National Park.

 Tuesday afternoon, after a brief lunch, we met our supervisor and immediately got into the thick of things (pun intended) as we bushwhacked our way down Rock Creek to do some White Spruce seed sampling.

 Hiking in Alaska is unlike anywhere else I have experienced. With ground plants like mosses (stair-step moss above) and lichens dominating the scene it makes for a gushy, bouncy floor of the forest.
 After dinner we caught one of the free shuttles that ran out to Savage Creek for a little hike and better view of the park's interior. I say that, but considering Savage Creek is at mile 13 of the 90 mile park road, we still have a lot to explorer. The views out of the bus window were simply incredible to both the north and south.


 A view south of the park road.

In the center of this photo, like a ghost, stands Mt. McKinley in the background. It is the tallest mountain in North America, and the tallest mountain in the world in terms of total vertical relief (distance from visible base to summit...a whole mile higher than Mt. Everest).

 At the beginning of Savage Creek. Tremendous rock forms are scattered across the steep slopes. I saw a few people bouldering at one point.

 Showing my Richmond XC/TF pride with a view down the Savage Creek valley.

 A large caribou wandered our way, very pretty animal. In the picture above you can see him in the distance above my left hand.

 Savage Creek lived up to its name. The dark silty water roared loudly from a distance.

 How many Dall Sheep can you spot in this picture? These guys were roaming the uppermost slopes of the surrounding ridges and peaks.

 For a better view I climbed up a sheep trail for a while. It was well worth the effort in my opinion.

 Savage Creek flowing far below. As you can see, ice melt in the warm weather was picking up and intensifying the creek.

 A view farther up the ridge I climbed towards the peak.

On the way back to catch the shuttle, spotted this little guy. A snowshoe hare, its name quickly became apparent as when it hopped away I could easily see its massive, fluffy hind-feet.